Thailand Diary

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mad in pursuit Sunday, 5.13.90

Overnight was peaceful -- asleep by about 8 P.M., awake, up at 6. One excursion to the bushes -- beautiful, full moon, cool night. Most stressful is the hard mat on back if sleeping supine and on hip/pelvic bones if on side.

Set out at 8 for a Lisu village -- blistering hot, up to 106. We stopped for a water break at a Lahu village. Children were driving a herd of water buffalo through the village -- great photo opportunity -- till one of the phlegmatic beasts decided to attack Jerry, who fortunately slopped and fell while the buffalo rammed the house post. Turned to charge Anna, who leapt behind a post. The buffalo finally gave up and Anna -- white as a sheet -- was escorted away to safety. Jerry: euphoric for hours with the narrow escape.

Lisu village. Greeted with cold soda and beer and water from a hose. Much of house is built with teak and corrugated iron roof -- making guest quarters unbearably hot -- like a sauna. We move our mats to a cooler but more open area-way.

Dove in a large bamboo cage. Two black with white jay-like birds in another -- grooming each other. One jay forced to drink from cup by owner.

4 girls in traditional dress -- red leggings on calf, black pants, just below knee, blue tunics with red sleeves with thick woven decoration. Black or real silver belts. Plastic sandals. Pose happily for pictures without apparently expecting remuneration. As in the Akha village, they are delighted to see pictures in our Hilltribe book. Girls are somewhat Chinese looking with tiny flat noses and round flat faces. They seem to recognize all the other tribes from the book. I entertain them by drawing pictures of them in my notebook.